Category Archives: Spain

Slow Food and Sweet Siestas The True Spirit of Ibiza

We love the island of Ibiza and its many unexplored special places !So after reading several recent travel articles on Ibiza which focussed on partying at the new Las Vegas style hotels and “clubs” in Playa den Bossa, the southern beach club bling factor with overpriced restaurants serving underwhelming food, we decided it was time to share some of  the real Ibiza where time stands still and you can really switch off.

There is a different side to this magical island which makes traveling here a must for lovers of luxury travel and slow food. While an evening at Lio Cabaret may be on most peoples list and while we will happily rent you a luxury villa in Ibiza there is so much more to this island than what is commonly perceived.

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Ibiza fields in spring

The amazingly vibrant countryside and farmlands of the north combine with stunning cliff shrouded beaches, pine covered peninsulas and fishermen’s coves to make this island a very special place to visit and enjoy its history and its nature. Here are our top places for families and friends alike to siesta and enjoy local produce cooked the way we like it in the true spirit of Ibiza.

 

The Agroturismo

On our recent trip to Ibiza we made a wonderful discovery, the Agroturismo Can Domo, which we had not visited for twelve years turned out to be a hotel and restaurant we would highly recommend. The pretty hilltop hotel is a renovated finca with very attentive service and eight charming bedrooms – ask for the upstairs suite with its private terrace with sea and campo views. The bedrooms are all decorated in muted pretty tones with well appointed en suite bathrooms. The big bonus here is the owner’s husband Pau is a fabulous chef and the menu consists of light, creative dishes using organic and local produce. Lunch and dinner are served on the shaded pool terrace and at night you watch the moon rise from your table.

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The owner and her husband the chef
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Night time dining at Can Domo

 

The Boat

Octapus C is a beautifully restored sailing yacht it sleeps six people comfortably and is available for day cruises for up to ten guests. If you choose to request a picnic on board the food comes from the farm kitchen at Can Pere Musson, organic fresh food is sourced from their kitchen garden and delicious salads quiches and cold pastas are served for lunch with a lovely cold glass of rose. The perfect vessel for a day cruise to small coves for swimming or an overnight trip to Formentera. The crew are charming and you can waterski or ride a doughnut from their dinghy.

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Octapus at sea

 

The Beach Restaurant

Our favourite place by far for lunch at the beach and a swim is the small bay of Xucla near San Joan in the north of the island. The beach shack which is run by two brothers and their sister serves up fresh salads and fish just caught in a nearby creek the same morning. The crystal clear cove is a brilliant place to swim and snorkel and the vibe at the restaurant area is definitely relaxed. Local residents come down for sunset and its not uncommon to find a few of them strumming guitars as the sun slides below the horizon. The restaurant is also open in the evening on request, pretty candles line the walk way to the beach and on a full moon there is no better spot to dine and celebrate the beauty of Ibiza .

The Finca with Chef

New this year and nestled in the countryside within walking distance of the village of San Carles is the small  Finca del Campo with four double bedrooms and a possible fifth single bed. The setting is charming and quiet and while the rooms are simple its extremely peaceful and a great place to switch off. The owner is a chef and cooks amazing dinners for his guests all with locally sourced fish meat and produce and breakfast is served daily on the porch of the finca.

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Charming Finca with a Chef

 

Dinner and a Chupito

It used to be that no matter where one went for lunch and dinner a chupito (after dinner drink) was offered on the house. With the advent of the trendy and overpriced restaurants that have sprung up in the last five years this tradition is disappearing.

My dinner spot Can Cires in San Mateu is chosen for being authentic and serving great food. Recently on Easter Sunday we were served a local dish of roasted leeks which have to be eaten with surgical gloves and a bib! The food here is really good and the chef cooks meat and fish dishes in a simple traditional fashion. The large terrace is spacious and the clientele consist of many regular diners. The after dinner (or lunch) chupito to ease you into the siesta or nocturnal activities is offered automatically at the end of each meal.

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Lunch at Can Cires

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The Grocery Store

The owners of the farmer’s market store Viva Flor on the road from San Carles to Es Canar take great pride in explaining where their produce is sourced. Much of it is local grown by them or in nearby organic vegetable gardens. Their eggs are from their own hens and they have fresh flowers and plants for sale every day.

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Fresh organic and locally grown produce at Viva Flor

Opening Hours are from 08.00 until 14.00 For a more extensive selection of fruit vegetables meat and fish the market in Santa Eularia offers a great selection with local vendors selling everything from fresh chamomile for tea to local cheeses and a large variety of fresh fish, vegetables and fruit.

The Best Piece of Fish

Our intention was to write about affordable places that cater to the more discerning palate however I have to include the restaurant at Es Torrent in this blog. In a typical Ibiza beach cove setting under pine trees and shady umbrellas next to a sandy swimming beach this restaurant serves the most incredible grilled fish and fabulous seafood paellas. It’s not cheap but it’s so worth it.

The Olive Oil

Ses Escoles is a wonderful addition to the restaurant scene, set in a restored school house the owner Miguel has created a charming environment for a drink, a meal or an olive oil tasting. Their organic oils are made from olives from their farm  and all the produce used at the restaurant is organic and local.

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Organic Olive Oil and Fabulous Food

 

This Month’s Private House

We can offer many lovely private homes for rent from Fabulous Finca’s to Luxury Villas. We prefer to represent real homes that are cared for and loved, so when you stay there it feels like a home away from home. In the theme of the Spirit of Ibiza we would elect Can Calma as our home of the month as it represents the ultimate stylish yet chilled environment.

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Can Calma Ibiza

 

The eclectic comfortable design, the stunning views from the groovy roof terrace combined with the organic vegetables from the kitchen garden and the amazing Asian cuisine served by Anita the housekeeper all combine to make this the perfect luxury home for a fabulous relaxing stay.

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8 things to know in Ibiza and Formentera this summer

Formentera barefoot and beautiful
Formentera barefoot and beautiful

Summer is here and for all of us spending time in the lovely Balearic Islands this means sampling the old and the new as its constantly changing here . I have been in Ibiza and Formentera over the last few months so have had the chance to try out a few new places and to check in with a few “old faithfuls”.

There have been massive investments made in the last 5 years and it might seem scary that there are now several beach “bars” which cost more than a good night out in London or Los Angeles  and restaurants charging prices that make Paris and Tokyo look reasonable !

In Ibiza lets start by the water:

1. Xucla is my favorite beach shack, hidden away in the north of the island this small hut run by a brother and sister team serves great tasty dishes using fresh produce. Spend the afternoon there , order a cocktail and watch the sunset then wander up to the charming candlelit “shack”. They are open for lunch & dinner and you do need to reserve +34 679 670 599.

2. Babylon Beach Bar is now in its second year and has a swimming platform which makes swimming in the beautiful blue water there much easier. They have stylish and comfortable beach beds and the food is consistently good. This summer they added a more sophisticated restaurant for the evening with a very sexy bar! Babylon Beach +34 971 332 181 http://www.babylonbeachbar.com

Babylon Beach Bar Rose de Provence
Babylon Beach Bar Rose de Provence

3. The legendary waterfront Chiringuito on Tagomago Island ( once run by Roger Middleton and frequented by princesses and local artists alike ) has re opened this week. Thanks to Johnny Beach a well known DJ and entrepreneur in the event and restaurant world the little chiringuito will be open for lunch and dinner all summer from July 25th. The hours are 12.00- 22.00 and they accept cash only. John told me they are serving fresh produce and local sea food accompanied by wine and cocktails- bring your boat or have them pick you up in Pou des Lleo.

Tagomago Chiringuito
Tagomago Chiringuito

4. Aura has been a favorite night time stand by for anyone living in the north of the island so when I heard that it was changing hands I was slightly concerned …I did not need to be. I happened to go there last Monday for the opening night of Sacca as it is now called, the interior design is stylish and contemporary. The cherry blossom canopied bar is now in the center of the terrace, where it always should have been, as it provides a great nucleus, and place meeting point. The sushi and sashimi menu is fabulous as is the ambience. They still have a DJ and dance area and all in all I think its a great addition.

Several new places have opened on Formentera my tips are as follows:

5. Dont go to Juan and Andrea instead book in at Beso Beach also on Illetes and sit with your feet in the sand enjoying their service and great food. http://www.besobeach.com/besobeach.htm

6. Try the new and lovely Chez Gerdi for dinner – great italian dishes

7. Las Banderas on Playa Mitjorn is still serving great food and is a marvelous setting for lunch and swimming. They have also improved the rooms ever so slightly.

8. The police are out in force in Ibiza , sadly not so much to protect as to fine us, so drive responsibly and respect the local laws. There have been a spate of burglaries and hand bag theft so try not to walk around with the family heirlooms, keep it low key and you will avoid being noticed by those with bad intentions.

PS : I heard about a little bar in Cala St Vicent called Hidden – I have not been there yet but its sounds like fun.